FAQ BMW

Question:

Thanks for all the responses. I think it may have been a no-brainer that snow tires are better than all-season tires, but it’s still better to hear from first-hand experiences. Thanks again. — Gary

Response:

>Depending on conditions the top snow tires would be >Nokian Hakka 1’s or Q’s >Blizzaks >Yokohama Guardex >Michelin Alpine

I don’t know if this is some kind of distribution policy problem in States or what, but nobody seems to mention Gislaveds here. In every Nordic test Gislaved Nord Frost II is THE winning tire and if you have driven one, you can understand the reason. The amount of grip on Gislas is simply unbelievable. ——- Martini ——-

Response:

Iwas sceptical about the benefits of snow tyres until I actually got some. They really make a surprising amount of difference. Driving in snow and ice is now fun, as the car slides predictable and controllably, whereas before it was a scary nightmare of never knowing when it would break away and then when it would stop..

Response:

I did a quick search and didn’t see any info specific to the ‘00, 328i, so does anyone have any advice about snow tires for this car? Do they make a large difference from the all-season radials? If so, is there a brand that is preferable for this car? Not my car, BTW. Asking for someone else. Thanks! — Gary

Response:

They make a huge difference from all-season tires. I have had Bridgestone MZ-02 for two seasons and they make the difference between driving and getting stuck. The down side is that the handling gets sloppy, they have less grip on anything but snow or ice and they are speed rated to, I believe, only 90MPH. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I did a quick search and didn’t see any info specific to the ‘00, 328i, so > does anyone have any advice about snow tires for this car? > Do they make a large difference from the all-season radials? > If so, is there a brand that is preferable for this car? > Not my car, BTW. Asking for someone else. > Thanks! > — Gary

Response:

> I did a quick search and didn’t see any info specific to the ‘00, 328i, so > does anyone have any advice about snow tires for this car? > Do they make a large difference from the all-season radials? > If so, is there a brand that is preferable for this car?

Snow and ice tires make a huge difference. Not sure that any brand is preferable. I chose Michelin Artic Alpins over the more common Bridgestone Blizzaks because the roads get plowed pretty promptly around here. Blizzaks have a kind of dual compound (someone can help with a more technical description, I’m sure) the outer layer of which wears more quickly (15k or so miles?) on pavement. It’s worth considering doing a kind of -1 set up; going down to 215/55 16s. The narrower tire cuts through the slop better. Also worth getting a second set of rims just for winter. Marc Rhatigan Wake me to reply. Remove zzz…

Response:

> I did a quick search and didn’t see any info specific to the ‘00, 328i, so > does anyone have any advice about snow tires for this car?

Depending on conditions the top snow tires would be Nokian Hakka 1’s or Q’s Blizzaks Yokohama Guardex Michelin Alpine Remember to get steel rims as narrow as you can, I’m running Hakka Q’s and my snows are too wide at 195/55/15 When these wear out I’ll go to a 175/??/14. > Do they make a large difference from the all-season radials?

Night and day > If so, is there a brand that is preferable for this car?

See above, also check out the Ice Racing link to see what they use http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/events/2000/ice-racing.html I hope this helps you out… — Steve Bernard Red ‘99 Miata – Sport Package (B-Stock) Autocrosser

Response:

>I did a quick search and didn’t see any info specific to the ‘00, 328i, so >does anyone have any advice about snow tires for this car? >Do they make a large difference from the all-season radials? >If so, is there a brand that is preferable for this car?

I have a ‘97 328 ic. Original Michellin all-seasons were horrible in any accumulated snow. I got stock o my flat driveway with 5" of fresh, wet snow. I got a set of steel rims and Pirelli Asymmetricos all ’round. The car is a dream in the winter. MUCH better that my previous car, a Honda Prelude. A set of good snow tires makes the difference between "sweet" and "I hope I get there in one piece." -Steve Makohin                          | Remove "ANTISPAM" from                                         | address before replying.

Response:

Question:

Aloha: I’m currently trying to repair a damaged muffler, as it has broken apart from the arm that supports it and helps keep the whole exhaust pipe from being dragged on the ground, I have included a crude ASCII drawing because I’m not sure if my explanation is sufficent.             |    /                   | My question is if it is possible to use the muffler repair kits one would find at Auto Zone or some generic retail auto store, having the muffler welded back, or is this muffler going to have to be replaced in the long run? Thanks in advance. -Punani — The best way to predict the future is to invent it. — Alan Kay

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Aloha: > I’m currently trying to repair a damaged muffler, as it has broken apart > from the arm that supports it and helps keep the whole exhaust pipe from > being dragged on the ground, I have included a crude ASCII drawing > because I’m not sure if my explanation is sufficent. >             |    /       >             | > My question is if it is possible to use the muffler repair kits one > would find at Auto Zone or some generic retail auto store, having the > muffler welded back, or is this muffler going to have to be replaced in > the long run?

I won’t tell you to replace it because it would look like self-interest.  If this failure is a result of rusting, though, I’d expect the muffler hasn’t much longer to go.  In that case, you might be interested in buying the brand new one I have left over from my old (hail-totalled) ‘82 528e.  It was from Rocky Mountain Motorworks and it was never mounted, as the storm destroyed the car the day after it arrived.  >:^( — C.R. Krieger (Been there; changed that)

Response:

>(hail-totalled) ‘82 528e.  It was from Rocky Mountain Motorworks and >it was never mounted, as the storm destroyed the car the day after it >arrived.  >:^(

Hail, C.R. that’s bad news. Where’n the hail was the hail?              Colin

Response:

> >(hail-totalled) ‘82 528e.  It was from Rocky Mountain Motorworks and >it was never mounted, as the storm destroyed the car the day after it >arrived.  >:^( > Hail, C.R. that’s bad news.

No; that’s the Good News.  With the proceeds of the 528, I picked up a lovely 535is.  The Bad News is, I was left with a whole brand spankin’ new 528 exhaust system I’ve still got – and this guy hasn’t indicated any interest in buyin’ it. > Where’n the hail was the hail?

Mostly passing through the west end of Manitowoc, Wisconsin, *horizontally*, at about 100 mph, at high noon on the Friday before Mother’s Day in Y2K.  One of the *scariest* drives I’ve ever had; and I’ve crashed in the Kink at Road America … — C.R. Krieger (Been there; done that)

Response:

Question:

A VICTORY over nico-demon!!!!!!! YES AGAIN—– mibabet

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

Whole different Motivation this time…… will fill you all in at a later time.

Response:

>2 hours, 15 minutes and 26 seconds. 4 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1.10. >Life saved: 20 minutes.

mighty fine… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Hey New Year Resolutes, Maybe Spook just wanted to be part of our soon to be famous AS3 success story! Linda Resolute for 4 days, 14 hours, 20 minutes, not smoked 183; $36.82 saved, life saved 15:19:31 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

HAY! Spook, good to see you back. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

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2 hours, 15 minutes and 26 seconds. 4 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1.10. Life saved: 20 minutes.

Response:

You CAN do this!! Moira One month, three weeks, six days, 1 hour, 49 minutes and 38 seconds. 2054 cigarettes not smoked, saving $443.82. Life saved: 1 week, 3 hours, 10 minutes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

you don’t know? what don’t you know? — read and post daily! rosie      "A New Year: 12 months, 52 weeks, 365 days, 8,760 hours, 525,600 minutes — a time to consider directions, goals, and actions.  I must make some plans to live a normal life, but also I must live emotionally within a twenty-four-hour frame, for if I do, I don’t have to make New Year’s resolutions!  I can make every day a

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

nutting….but i’m back

Response:

you’re on your way now (again?).  Good luck then. Amber I have been free from nicotine for: 1 month, 2 weeks, 4 days, 11 hours, 19 minutes and 10 seconds. 986 cigarettes not smoked, $98.66 saved, life saved 3D 10:13:15.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

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23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: 0 minutes.

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>23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: >0 minutes.

Yeah!!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: 0 minutes.

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>23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: >0 minutes.

Yeah!!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

you don’t know? what don’t you know? — read and post daily! rosie      "A New Year: 12 months, 52 weeks, 365 days, 8,760 hours, 525,600 minutes — a time to consider directions, goals, and actions.  I must make some plans to live a normal life, but also I must live emotionally within a twenty-four-hour frame, for if I do, I don’t have to make New Year’s resolutions!  I can make every day a

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

nutting….but i’m back

Response:

you’re on your way now (again?).  Good luck then. Amber I have been free from nicotine for: 1 month, 2 weeks, 4 days, 11 hours, 19 minutes and 10 seconds. 986 cigarettes not smoked, $98.66 saved, life saved 3D 10:13:15.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

2 hours, 15 minutes and 26 seconds. 4 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1.10. Life saved: 20 minutes.

Response:

You CAN do this!! Moira One month, three weeks, six days, 1 hour, 49 minutes and 38 seconds. 2054 cigarettes not smoked, saving $443.82. Life saved: 1 week, 3 hours, 10 minutes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

A VICTORY over nico-demon!!!!!!! YES AGAIN—– mibabet

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

Whole different Motivation this time…… will fill you all in at a later time.

Response:

>2 hours, 15 minutes and 26 seconds. 4 cigarettes not smoked, saving $1.10. >Life saved: 20 minutes.

mighty fine… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Hey New Year Resolutes, Maybe Spook just wanted to be part of our soon to be famous AS3 success story! Linda Resolute for 4 days, 14 hours, 20 minutes, not smoked 183; $36.82 saved, life saved 15:19:31 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

HAY! Spook, good to see you back. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 23 minutes and 6 seconds. 0 cigarettes not smoked, saving $0.19. Life saved: > 0 minutes.

Response:

Question:

I’ve had my 325i for 8 months and in that time I’ve brought it to two different dealers (total of 3 times) because the A/C was malfunctioning. Specifically, according to each dealer it was the hot water valve exchange (or something like that).  The value was replaced twice and the A/C worked thereafter for a few months and then the problem started all over again. First the feeling of warm air feeding intot he A/C on and intermittent basis, and then after 1-2 weeks the A/C goes to completely warm air.  The car is now going in again and the service manager (who agreed that what was happing over again was strange–one for the good guys) has arranged for the BMW regional rep to look at it next Tuesday.  Any suggestions on how I can try to ensure that the damned A/C gets fixed once and for all?  Thanks, Adam

Response:

Sorry for reposting, but I would like some help here. I’ve had my 325i for 8 months and in that time I’ve brought it to two different dealers (total of 3 times) because the A/C was malfunctioning. Specifically, according to each dealer it was the hot water valve exchange (or something like that).  The value was replaced twice and the A/C worked thereafter for a few months and then the problem started all over again. First the feeling of warm air feeding intot he A/C on and intermittent basis, and then after 1-2 weeks the A/C goes to completely warm air.  The car is now going in again and the service manager (who agreed that what was happing over again was strange–one for the good guys) has arranged for the BMW regional rep to look at it next Tuesday.  Any suggestions on how I can try to ensure that the damned A/C gets fixed once and for all?  Thanks, Adam —

Response:

In my case, the regional rep was an automotive engineer.  A real one.  With a degree and everything.  I had expected your basic regional service rep whose job it is to balance customer sat with cost.  Not so.  He was entirely qualified and wanted to understand and fix the problems.  Impressive.  I hope this is a habit on BMW’s part. Anyway, if BMWNA sends you one like the one they sent me, your worries are basically over…I mostly showed him the problems and let him decide what caused them.  (In one case, it wasn’t actually a a problem, but that’s another story.)  While I had his attention, he answered about 7,206 questions about the car.  Now, if the dealer had actually implemented the fix right the first time…or the second…or…well, you get the idea.  But it got ironed out eventually.  Patience is sometimes required. JRE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Sorry for reposting, but I would like some help here. > I’ve had my 325i for 8 months and in that time I’ve brought it to two > different dealers (total of 3 times) because the A/C was malfunctioning. > Specifically, according to each dealer it was the hot water valve exchange > (or something like that).  The value was replaced twice and the A/C worked > thereafter for a few months and then the problem started all over again. > First the feeling of warm air feeding intot he A/C on and intermittent > basis, and then after 1-2 weeks the A/C goes to completely warm air.  The > car is now going in again and the service manager (who agreed that what was > happing over again was strange–one for the good guys) has arranged for the > BMW regional rep to look at it next Tuesday.  Any suggestions on how I can > try to ensure that the damned A/C gets fixed once and for all?  Thanks, > Adam > —

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >In my case, the regional rep was an automotive engineer.  A real one.  With a >degree and everything.  I had expected your basic regional service rep whose >job it is to balance customer sat with cost.  Not so.  He was entirely >qualified and wanted to understand and fix the problems.  Impressive.  I hope >this is a habit on BMW’s part. >Anyway, if BMWNA sends you one like the one they sent me, your worries are >basically over…I mostly showed him the problems and let him decide what >caused them.  (In one case, it wasn’t actually a a problem, but that’s another >story.)  While I had his attention, he answered about 7,206 questions about the >car.  Now, if the dealer had actually implemented the fix right the first >time…or the second…or…well, you get the idea.  But it got ironed out >eventually.  Patience is sometimes required. >JRE

Where are you located, please?  And can you share the rep’s name? –Mike Scheer

Response:

I had reoccuring A/C problems as well. Basically, my mechanic was doing "trial and error" and kept telling me I needed a new part. I ended up replacing the drier, condenser, etc… The problem was with a little $40 switch valve (not sure of proper terminology) that is slightly to the left of my glovebox. I have a 1987 325. I only mention this, because the same problems with your A/C happened to mine, with the intermitten turning to warm air and then becoming warm the whole time. Good thing it isn’t a compressor problem. Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’ve had my 325i for 8 months and in that time I’ve brought it to two >different dealers (total of 3 times) because the A/C was malfunctioning. >Specifically, according to each dealer it was the hot water valve exchange >(or something like that).  The value was replaced twice and the A/C worked >thereafter for a few months and then the problem started all over again. >First the feeling of warm air feeding intot he A/C on and intermittent >basis, and then after 1-2 weeks the A/C goes to completely warm air.  The >car is now going in again and the service manager (who agreed that what was >happing over again was strange–one for the good guys) has arranged for the >BMW regional rep to look at it next Tuesday.  Any suggestions on how I can >try to ensure that the damned A/C gets fixed once and for all?  Thanks, >Adam

Response:

–

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had reoccuring A/C problems as well. Basically, my mechanic was doing "trial > and error" and kept telling me I needed a new part. I ended up replacing the > drier, condenser, etc… The problem was with a little $40 switch valve (not > sure of proper terminology) that is slightly to the left of my glovebox. I have > a 1987 325. I only mention this, because the same problems with your A/C > happened to mine, with the intermitten turning to warm air and then becoming > warm the whole time. Good thing it isn’t a compressor problem. > Joe >I’ve had my 325i for 8 months and in that time I’ve brought it to two >different dealers (total of 3 times) because the A/C was malfunctioning. >Specifically, according to each dealer it was the hot water valve exchange >(or something like that).  The value was replaced twice and the A/C worked >thereafter for a few months and then the problem started all over again. >First the feeling of warm air feeding intot he A/C on and intermittent >basis, and then after 1-2 weeks the A/C goes to completely warm air.  The >car is now going in again and the service manager (who agreed that what was >happing over again was strange–one for the good guys) has arranged for the >BMW regional rep to look at it next Tuesday.  Any suggestions on how I can >try to ensure that the damned A/C gets fixed once and for all?  Thanks, >Adam

Wonder if it was the hot water control valve.  It is my understanding that the valve is easy to replace and doesn’t cost much.

Response:

Question:

How do I install a window air conditioner in a room without windows. Cannot go through the wall as the homeowners association objects. May I place it on a stand with a basin to catch the drippings? Will this work?? Any and all suggestions appreciated. Please send by Email.

Response:

>How do I install a window air conditioner in a room without windows. >Cannot go through the wall as the homeowners association objects. >May I place it on a stand with a basin to catch the drippings? >Will this work??

No.  You have to vent the hot air to the outside.  Otherwise all you have is a dehumidifier.

Response:

Elliott L. Shapiro wrote >How do I install a window air conditioner in a room without windows.

You can’t. A window or wall air conditioner needs to vent to the outdoors. >May I place it on a stand with a basin to catch the drippings?

You can if you want but it won’t do any cooling of the room air. >Any and all suggestions appreciated.

If increased humidity in the room is not a concern, you could use an evaporative type cooler like shown at the following link. These evaporate moisture into the room to reduce air temperature. There are also portable air conditioners that use a dryer style vent that can be directed outside or into another room to move one room’s heat. http://ng.appliance411.com/data.php?compact=aircon2.html The only other solutions would be install a central unit or a "mini split" system which would cost $,$$$ Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=air+conditioner =

Question:

Not long now Nicole.  Just a small 7 more smokes missed and it will roll. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 4d 23:34 smoke-free, 99,993 cigs not smoked, $12,339.14 saved, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >That is such a cool milestone Ian ) Can’t wait to see the flipped >meter! >Nicole >DOF SA #4  f3as3  Two years, one week, five days, 5 hours, 41 minutes >and 26 seconds. 25978 cigarettes not smoked, saving $4,624.14. Time I >can spend with my little one that I wouldn’t have if I were smoking: >12 weeks, 6 days, 4 hours, 50 minutes. >Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate >listed >in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime >Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more >milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. >Ian >OOF >— >8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

That is such a cool milestone Ian ) Can’t wait to see the flipped meter! Nicole DOF SA #4  f3as3  Two years, one week, five days, 5 hours, 41 minutes and 26 seconds. 25978 cigarettes not smoked, saving $4,624.14. Time I can spend with my little one that I wouldn’t have if I were smoking: 12 weeks, 6 days, 4 hours, 50 minutes. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed >in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime >Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more >milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. >Ian >OOF >— >8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Rosie,   Thanks.  Though I have a bit of time quit longer than you I find you one of the most inspiring folks here.  I can imagine AS3 without me but not without Read and Post Rosie! Ian OOF — 8y 2w 1d 2:43 smoke-free, 99,863 cigs not smoked, $12,323.09 saved, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >i’m right here watching! >– >read and post daily, it works! >rosie >LET THE INSPECTIONS WORK! >(petition) >http://www.moveon.org/ > Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate >listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means >sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Wow  Ian, what a record. Its almost unbelievable , what a pile of cigs that would be. Be waiting for the party to begin. Paul D

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Moll,    No carpets made out of anything.  Not after spending the savings of 8 years putting wood floors into the house.   Well today I am now even closer.  Only 137 left to go and 3.9 days to get there. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 1d 2:42 smoke-free, 99,863 cigs not smoked, $12,323.09 saved, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->begin >Do you think you could carpet an entire room with that many cigarettes? And >think of how big the room would have to be. Congratulations on your upcoming >BIG Milestone. >Moll > Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate >listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means >sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Do you think you could carpet an entire room with that many cigarettes? And think of how big the room would have to be. Congratulations on your upcoming BIG Milestone. Moll

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

i’m right here watching! — read and post daily, it works! rosie LET THE INSPECTIONS WORK! (petition) http://www.moveon.org/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

"I Fraigun" > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years.

Every time you are reminded of how you used to smoke and realize you’ve been smoke-free is a milestone! ONE HUNDRED-THOUSAND — Quitting is difficult, but smoking is harder.

Response:

Oh wow this is great  Many pats on the back to you Ian!

Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.

Now that is a pile of cigs I would like to see!!  Many congrats — mc I haven’t lost my mind, It is backed up on disk somewhere. 4M

Response:

Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

This is most awesome, Ian, even unthinkable!  Go YOU! With hope and heart, Kathleen — If you are humble nothing will touch you, neither praise nor disgrace, because you know what you are. ~Mother Theresa : Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed : in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime : Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more : milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. : : Ian : OOF : — : 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved, :

Response:

> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Sheesh, how many trucks would be needed for that?!?! This is just awesome, how many cigarettes you didn’t smoke!! cya, blash

Response:

Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

This is most awesome, Ian, even unthinkable!  Go YOU! With hope and heart, Kathleen — If you are humble nothing will touch you, neither praise nor disgrace, because you know what you are. ~Mother Theresa : Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed : in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime : Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more : milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. : : Ian : OOF : — : 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved, :

Response:

> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Sheesh, how many trucks would be needed for that?!?! This is just awesome, how many cigarettes you didn’t smoke!! cya, blash

Response:

> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.

Now that is a pile of cigs I would like to see!!  Many congrats — mc I haven’t lost my mind, It is backed up on disk somewhere. 4M

Response:

Oh wow this is great  Many pats on the back to you Ian!

Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Do you think you could carpet an entire room with that many cigarettes? And think of how big the room would have to be. Congratulations on your upcoming BIG Milestone. Moll

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

i’m right here watching! — read and post daily, it works! rosie LET THE INSPECTIONS WORK! (petition) http://www.moveon.org/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

"I Fraigun" > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years.

Every time you are reminded of how you used to smoke and realize you’ve been smoke-free is a milestone! ONE HUNDRED-THOUSAND — Quitting is difficult, but smoking is harder.

Response:

Wow  Ian, what a record. Its almost unbelievable , what a pile of cigs that would be. Be waiting for the party to begin. Paul D

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Moll,    No carpets made out of anything.  Not after spending the savings of 8 years putting wood floors into the house.   Well today I am now even closer.  Only 137 left to go and 3.9 days to get there. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 1d 2:42 smoke-free, 99,863 cigs not smoked, $12,323.09 saved, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->begin >Do you think you could carpet an entire room with that many cigarettes? And >think of how big the room would have to be. Congratulations on your upcoming >BIG Milestone. >Moll > Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate >listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means >sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Rosie,   Thanks.  Though I have a bit of time quit longer than you I find you one of the most inspiring folks here.  I can imagine AS3 without me but not without Read and Post Rosie! Ian OOF — 8y 2w 1d 2:43 smoke-free, 99,863 cigs not smoked, $12,323.09 saved, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >i’m right here watching! >– >read and post daily, it works! >rosie >LET THE INSPECTIONS WORK! >(petition) >http://www.moveon.org/ > Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate >listed > in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means >sometime > Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more > milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. > Ian > OOF > — > 8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

That is such a cool milestone Ian ) Can’t wait to see the flipped meter! Nicole DOF SA #4  f3as3  Two years, one week, five days, 5 hours, 41 minutes and 26 seconds. 25978 cigarettes not smoked, saving $4,624.14. Time I can spend with my little one that I wouldn’t have if I were smoking: 12 weeks, 6 days, 4 hours, 50 minutes. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate listed >in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime >Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more >milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. >Ian >OOF >— >8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Not long now Nicole.  Just a small 7 more smokes missed and it will roll. Ian OOF — 8y 2w 4d 23:34 smoke-free, 99,993 cigs not smoked, $12,339.14 saved, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >That is such a cool milestone Ian ) Can’t wait to see the flipped >meter! >Nicole >DOF SA #4  f3as3  Two years, one week, five days, 5 hours, 41 minutes >and 26 seconds. 25978 cigarettes not smoked, saving $4,624.14. Time I >can spend with my little one that I wouldn’t have if I were smoking: >12 weeks, 6 days, 4 hours, 50 minutes. >Well I am now counting down to 100,000 not smoked.  At my smoking rate >listed >in my meter I have about 4.9 days till I hit that mark.  That means sometime >Saturday night I will hit that 100,000 milestone.  After that no more >milestones till next February when I hit 9 years. >Ian >OOF >— >8y 2w 4:10 smoke-free, 99,832 cigs not smoked, $12,319.27 saved,

Response:

Question:

Hey Tom, Was interested in knowing the price range for their products.  Also what you had done to your machine.  I would be looking to replace front and back leathers on my ‘93 325i.  I believe sheepskins, although comfy are not a viable solution. Many thanks. Appreciate the feedback. Greg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi Mark, >Try the Veteran companyout of La, USA. They were very helpful to me and >actually called me to get specifics (I live in Canada). They will suggest >that you send them a piece of fabric and will match if they can. You can >reach them on the  net at www.veteranco.co >Good Luck >Tom > I’ve just got hold a 1992 318i (E36) great condition except there are > two rips in the back seat and they have frayed quite badly, anyone > know if this can be fixed or where I can get replacement trim for in > the UK (cheap) > Mark.

Response:

Hi Greg, On my 87 325is the sport seat bolsters have worn out and the upper drivers side one has worn through. I was looking to the Veteran Co for that material and while they did not have it they were very helpful and sent me a product catalogue etc. Their email is on the website, but you can expect to pay $65 per yard for cloth and truthfully I did not look at the leather pricing. They did note to me however that the materials they use are wider per linear yard than others so it provides more value. I don’t know how true that is. As it turns out I was able to find the cloth at a local guy who matched it from old (vintage 60’s) Ford material. It was bang on. I am going to have it done in the spring when I have the interior shampooed. If you have trouble getting them on the web the phone # is 323-937-2233 fax 5659. Good luck Tom

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Tom, > Was interested in knowing the price range for their products.  Also > what you had done to your machine.  I would be looking to replace > front and back leathers on my ‘93 325i.  I believe sheepskins, > although comfy are not a viable solution. > Many thanks. > Appreciate the feedback. > Greg >Hi Mark, >Try the Veteran companyout of La, USA. They were very helpful to me and >actually called me to get specifics (I live in Canada). They will suggest >that you send them a piece of fabric and will match if they can. You can >reach them on the  net at www.veteranco.co >Good Luck >Tom >> I’ve just got hold a 1992 318i (E36) great condition except there are >> two rips in the back seat and they have frayed quite badly, anyone >> know if this can be fixed or where I can get replacement trim for in >> the UK (cheap) >> Mark.

Response:

I’ve just got hold a 1992 318i (E36) great condition except there are two rips in the back seat and they have frayed quite badly, anyone know if this can be fixed or where I can get replacement trim for in the UK (cheap) Mark.

Response:

> I’ve just got hold a 1992 318i (E36) great condition except there are > two rips in the back seat and they have frayed quite badly, anyone > know if this can be fixed or where I can get replacement trim for in > the UK (cheap)

I’m not impressed by the fabic quality in early E36s. I replaced my seat back cover, got it for about 50 GBP at the dealer. — Who needs a life when you’ve got Unix?   Web  : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk – The Ultimate BMW Homepage! Need Sun or HP Unix kit? http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/unix.html

Response:

Hi Mark, Try the Veteran companyout of La, USA. They were very helpful to me and actually called me to get specifics (I live in Canada). They will suggest that you send them a piece of fabric and will match if they can. You can reach them on the  net at www.veteranco.co Good Luck Tom

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve just got hold a 1992 318i (E36) great condition except there are > two rips in the back seat and they have frayed quite badly, anyone > know if this can be fixed or where I can get replacement trim for in > the UK (cheap) > Mark.

Response:

Question:

>> I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like > If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the > best you can buy?   > So, which are the best cranks and rings made? >The best, so far, can be seen at : >http://www.best.com/~mtbr2/interbike/set4/image09.jpg >they are called sweetwings. >Flailer

I’ve seen those Anyone know why they’re called SWEETwings? Cause they’re sweeeeeettttt! But you gotta use their BB with the crank (bb is attached to the one crank)

Response:

Basically, no-one here, I don’t think has ridden EVERY crank on the market today. One guy might think Cook Bros are the best but another would think caramba are tops. So, really it’s what your preference is. There are loads of major kewl cranks on the market and most of them are top quality. Coda, Caramba, Kooka, White Industries, Cook Bros, Sweetwings,  Shimano XTR,  Boone, Race Face ……   too many to mention, but these are ALL good cranks

Response:

> So, which are the best cranks and rings made?

Check out http://www.mtbinfo.com/products/   They have advice on cranks and chainrings. Tim

Response:

> Basically, no-one here, I don’t think has ridden EVERY crank on the > market today. One guy might think Cook Bros are the best but another > would think caramba are tops. So, really it’s what your preference is. > There are loads of major kewl cranks on the market and most of them > are top quality. > Coda, Caramba, Kooka, White Industries, Cook Bros, Sweetwings, >  Shimano XTR,  Boone, Race Face ……   too many to mention, but > these are ALL good cranks

How about Specialized cold forged?  I’ve got a set of them that I like, but I really don’t know how they size up to the competition.                                         Cheers

Response:

> Will they stay tight >over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too >much.

Have you tried tightening the crank bolt with a torque wrench?  Since I started doing that I’ve never experienced a creaking crank.  I’m talking about Campagnolo road cranks.  They require 27 foot pounds of torque, which is beyond what you can do with an alan wrench. Most installation instructions indicate the torque you should tighten the bolts to.   my MTB came with Coda cranks stock and they’ve never needed adjustment, though I do plan on putting new chain rings on this winter….. Peter Kibbler 68 East Bare Hill Rd. Harvard, MA.

Response:

>I’d try and find some old Suntour XC-Pros. But that’s just me being >awkward . Since you presumably need compact chainrings, XC-Pros are >out.

Well, I have a pair of XC-Pro’s and mine are compact drive.  Or actually, they are _micro drive_ as Suntour’s version of the compact drive is called.  The outer BCD is the same as Shimano’s 94mm but the inner BCD is 2mm shy of Shimano’s 58mm.  Thus, you can use "compact" outer and middle chainrings but the 56mm inner chainring might be a bit difficult to replace.  But as Mike Davis said, these XC-Pro cranks are very nice — stiff, not too heavy, very well-made and very elegant.  BTW, we all know that Suntour invented the compact BCD’s, right? Cheers, Benz — ~{E7QtEt>Y  IqFfC(~} Die Wunderkatze http://www-ucsee.eecs.berkeley.edu/~benzzoy

Response:

Cook Bros. E-Cranks are light(maybe too light), and they have a replaceable spider( for all those missed bunny hops). I recommend them for lighter riders who are looking for performance.

Response:

> I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like > If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the > best you can buy?   > So, which are the best cranks and rings made?

The best, so far, can be seen at : http://www.best.com/~mtbr2/interbike/set4/image09.jpg they are called sweetwings. Flailer

Response:

Kooka make excellent cranks but listern to the warning in the installation manual that states "THESE CRANKS MUST NOT BE TIGHTENED TO MORE THEN 20Ft Lbs" if they are over tightened THEY WILL SNAP!!!   ive seen one guys go through three sets of cranks because of over tightening the good news is tey are excellent cranks and they will be replaced at kookas expense if you break them (just dont tell them you over tightened them) Luc

Response:

> >I think what I’m trying to say is, if you want reliability, steer clear of >anodised CNC rubbish and get some boring but functional forged cranks. >mike. > Race Face cranks are forged, _then_ CNCed.

So they’re better just because they use more manufacturing techniques? . Anyway, this is nothing new. My five-year old Mavic ATB cranks are forged and machined… Later, Mike. — Mike Davis                     |  If you post a reply to Usenet, I’d http://www.futurenet.co.uk/    |  me a copy by email. Thanks!

Response:

If money is no object in the crankset, B/B and chainrings that I want to purchase; I will get myself a CODA’s $1400 crankset, B/B and chainrings. In the June 96 issue of Bicycling mag. they have a picture of the assembly that’s set up for road bike. They claim that the (440gm 53/39 172.5mm cranks, chainrings, bolts and B/B.) assembly floats on water. I own the road version of production CODA cranks and B/B, I have used it for over 6000 miles in the pass 8 months, still cranking away, no sign of loosening, I may need chainring replacement soon though. Bobo

Response:

>In the June 96 issue of Bicycling mag. they have a picture of the >assembly that’s set up for road bike. They claim that the (440gm 53/39 >172.5mm cranks, chainrings, bolts and B/B.) assembly floats on water.

That’s meaningless. A battleship also floats on water, does that mean it’s light (which is what you’re trying to say)? Patrick McNally

Response:

> I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like > to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it > that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. > If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the > best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight > over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too > much. > So, which are the best cranks and rings made? > Thanks, > SK

I’d get Caramba Double Barrels because they look bitchin. Anodized red of course. Get some air and keep on spinning Radical Rassie

Response:

> I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like > to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it > that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. > If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the > best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight > over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too > much. > So, which are the best cranks and rings made?

I’d try and find some old Suntour XC-Pros. But that’s just me being awkward . Since you presumably need compact chainrings, XC-Pros are out. Nice though. The higher-end Suginos are good. Or XT. I’m currently tootling around on a ‘97 XT crank with the five-arm spider (rather than the funky four-arm one) and they’re fine. Look cool. I think what I’m trying to say is, if you want reliability, steer clear of anodised CNC rubbish and get some boring but functional forged cranks. If you must have something ‘trick’, Middleburn RS-3s are the faves in these parts. Later, mike. — Mike Davis                     |  If you post a reply to Usenet, I’d http://www.futurenet.co.uk/    |  me a copy by email. Thanks!

Response:

>I think what I’m trying to say is, if you want reliability, steer clear of >anodised CNC rubbish and get some boring but functional forged cranks. >mike.

Race Face cranks are forged, _then_ CNCed. Charles Coker Austin, TX

Response:

>I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like >to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it >that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. >If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the >best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight >over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too >much. >So, which are the best cranks and rings made? >Thanks, >SK

Having had Suginos as well. I heartily recommend Race Face cranks and Real Rings, me and several friends have been abusing these since March with no problems whatsoever. The Race Face cranks are stiffer than the Suginos. FWIW, I weigh 195 and do lots of rock dropoffs, climbing ledges where your crank/big chainring _smash_ into the rock ledges, etc.. highly recommended. Charles Coker Austin, TX

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->i would HIGHLY recommend the Tioga Revolver crank and bottom braket >system very light very strong AND GARUANTEED NOT TO CREAK because the >actually clamp onto a splined axel (and you thought shimano thought >of a splined axel huh?) there very good but im not sure how much >there worth >cook bros , syncros , race face , caramba , mcm , rhino and (maybe >even shimano xtr)are all very good cranks if your goin for downhill >racing you want to consider something like a set of redline flights >you couldnt bend or snap these puppies with a fork truck you do pay >for that in wieght but in downhill racing its a welcome trade off oh >there only sinlge ring compatible unless you could find a custom >spider >my $0.02 worth >Luc >(i have not intention of starting another argument so i’d apologise >in advance to anyone whos doesnt like what ive said) > I have been using the Tioga Revolver cranks/bb for a little over a year now, > and although I love their performance, they demand a little more care than I > like. Complete with chainrings and aluminum bolts, they weigh 900 > grams, the same as complete ‘95 XTR, but lots stiffer. > They require a lot of attention, as the aluminum spacer "tubes" inside have a > tendency to compress over time. This makes annoying creaking, and I have to > take it apart, relube, put on more loctite, and re-assemble. I have done this > maybe 10 times in the time I have had them. Although this might not seem like > a lot, it’s 9 times more than I ever had to take my old XT cup’n cone BB > apart. > As for a cost_is_no_object crankset, the hollow chro-mo Sweet Wings have been > touted as the strongest, stiffest and lightest crankset by every magazine who > tested them. 530 grams w/BB w/o rings, approx. 700 grams including BB and > rings. Me? I’m waiting for my Sweet Wings Ti to arrive. As strong as the cro- > mo version, stiff as good alu cranks, and only 400 grams including BB. > Ole Blokhus

I was checking the reviews over at http://www.mtbr.com/ and couldn’t help but notice at almost all the reviews gave Sweet Wings one/two stars. IMO, that’s kind of pitiful considering these are supposed to be "the" cranks to own.  Seem like they have lots of maintainance problems. Check it out. SK

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >: I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like >: to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it >: that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. >: If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the >: best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight >: over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too >: much. >    Go with the Raceface Turbine LP…cold forged, light (but not >stupid light), and stiff… Here in Canada we can get them for about 260$ >or so, which is great for an aftermarket crank.. Just because I have >shimano stuff on my bike I would probably stick with shimano rings, >too…  just for the shifting.

I agree, Race Face LP cranks are tops.  REAL stiff. ‘REAL’ chainrings are aparently quite good. KOOKA also make nice cranks.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like >to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it >that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. >If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the >best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight >over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too >much. >So, which are the best cranks and rings made? >Thanks, >SK

Response:

        The best cranks for the Money are the Race Face Turbine. Finely and proudly made in Canada. Race face also makes a wicked set of chainrings that look so swweeeetttt with the cranks. I raced all summer on a set of Real rings and they rocked. They lasted at least twice as long as a set of Shimano rings.                         Curti…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like >to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it >that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. >If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the >best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight >over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too >much. >So, which are the best cranks and rings made? >Thanks, >SK

Thor, Why do you recommend Cook Bros so highly?  A friend of mine had a set of Cooks and dumped them for Syncros Revolution cranks. He did not say why, but obviously there must be something better about Syncros, no?  What is you experience with other cranks in comparison to the Cook Bros? Thanks for your input. SK

Response:

i would HIGHLY recommend the Tioga Revolver crank and bottom braket system very light very strong AND GARUANTEED NOT TO CREAK because the actually clamp onto a splined axel (and you thought shimano thought of a splined axel huh?) there very good but im not sure how much there worth cook bros , syncros , race face , caramba , mcm , rhino and (maybe even shimano xtr)are all very good cranks if your goin for downhill racing you want to consider something like a set of redline flights you couldnt bend or snap these puppies with a fork truck you do pay for that in wieght but in downhill racing its a welcome trade off oh there only sinlge ring compatible unless you could find a custom spider my $0.02 worth Luc (i have not intention of starting another argument so i’d apologise in advance to anyone whos doesnt like what ive said)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->i would HIGHLY recommend the Tioga Revolver crank and bottom braket >system very light very strong AND GARUANTEED NOT TO CREAK because the >actually clamp onto a splined axel (and you thought shimano thought >of a splined axel huh?) there very good but im not sure how much >there worth >cook bros , syncros , race face , caramba , mcm , rhino and (maybe >even shimano xtr)are all very good cranks if your goin for downhill >racing you want to consider something like a set of redline flights >you couldnt bend or snap these puppies with a fork truck you do pay >for that in wieght but in downhill racing its a welcome trade off oh >there only sinlge ring compatible unless you could find a custom >spider >my $0.02 worth >Luc >(i have not intention of starting another argument so i’d apologise >in advance to anyone whos doesnt like what ive said)

I have been using the Tioga Revolver cranks/bb for a little over a year now, and although I love their performance, they demand a little more care than I like. Complete with chainrings and aluminum bolts, they weigh 900 grams, the same as complete ‘95 XTR, but lots stiffer. They require a lot of attention, as the aluminum spacer "tubes" inside have a tendency to compress over time. This makes annoying creaking, and I have to take it apart, relube, put on more loctite, and re-assemble. I have done this maybe 10 times in the time I have had them. Although this might not seem like a lot, it’s 9 times more than I ever had to take my old XT cup’n cone BB apart. As for a cost_is_no_object crankset, the hollow chro-mo Sweet Wings have been touted as the strongest, stiffest and lightest crankset by every magazine who tested them. 530 grams w/BB w/o rings, approx. 700 grams including BB and rings. Me? I’m waiting for my Sweet Wings Ti to arrive. As strong as the cro- mo version, stiff as good alu cranks, and only 400 grams including BB. Ole Blokhus

Response:

I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too much. So, which are the best cranks and rings made? Thanks, SK

Response:

: I’m in the process of upgrading my bike (Litespeed Obed), and would like : to upgrade my cranks. I’ve currently got Sugino Impel 500 cranks on it : that I took off my old bike and are scheduled to go on another bike. : If you had to buy cranks, money not withstanding, which cranks are the : best you can buy?  Do you know what they weigh?  Will they stay tight : over time?  I’ve seen too many creaking cranksets that cost way too : much.         Go with the Raceface Turbine LP…cold forged, light (but not stupid light), and stiff… Here in Canada we can get them for about 260$ or so, which is great for an aftermarket crank.. Just because I have shimano stuff on my bike I would probably stick with shimano rings, too…  just for the shifting.                                 Jason Jason Nugent, BSc(Hons)                                 Feeling my heart pull west Live to ride,                   I saw the future dressed as a stranger   Ride to Live.                 Love in a space-dye vest   _____  ____   _____  / ____|/ __ / ____|   Please help save "Sailor Moon" from cancellation | (___ | |  | | (___      in North America by adding your signature to:  ____) | |__| |____) |     http://looney.physics.sunysb.edu/~daffy/sos/

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Question:

Another depressing day at the junkyard today. This winter took its toll on alot of Chicago cruisers. Rows of mid to late 80’s Caprice’s, LeSabre’s Caddy Broughams, 98’s and Town Cars. Always a surge in new residents after winter ends, only to lay rotting away before being fed into the crusher. It appears my 78 Olds 88 met that fate sometime ago. I saw many a newer car with blown airbags and minimal damage to the front ends of those vehilce’s. I always wonder what is a 5 -7 year old car doing in the junkyard. Not a very long life. The latest collection of 87-90 Bonnevilles included LE, SE and four SSE’s. If the odometers were correct they ranged from 51,000 to 136,000 to 189,000 and 204,000 miles. There were around 10 of them in all. Only one 1991 was there.  : – ) There were around 10 from the 92-96 era. A silver 92 one had its rear bumper shoved up under the left rear floor pan. Caused by an apparent high speed offset rear end collision. A 2000 ( or newer ) PT Cruiser and a 99 – ish looking  Z / 28 were the newest cars on the property. The PT was high up on " The Front / Rear Clip Storage Rack ", cut in half just behind the front door. A very short lifespan for the PT, indeed. Some real nice looking 90’s Roadmaster wagons, and late 80’s Custom Cruiser, Caprice and Buick Estate wagons all lay in the last row far enough from view & ear shot of the office personel, only to have all their windows busted out by brake drums, bumper jack’s, or wheel rims. I swept the glass off the leather seat in one Roadmaster wagon – what a comfortable seat it was. To big to be put in my car. I bet that car did some cruising at one time. The oldest car there was a 63 Cadilac and a 64 or 65  Thunderbird. I ended up buying a the defroster outlet grille for my dash. Mine broke up from heat warp & age. I also got 6 window pillar molding clips and the Bonneville nameplates off the doors, trunklid and dashboard. I also found the long style door map pocket from an 89 SE. Its for my front passenger door panel. I’ve had the long style on the driver side for three years. Been waiting that long to find another grey one for the right side. For some reason in 1990 Pontiac shrunk the  overall length of the map pockets about 8 inches. After I paid for the stuff, I put my muddy boots in the trunk, washed my hands with GOJO, cracked open a cold one ( Pepsi ) and looked at my dirty dusty car. I drove off with a smile,  happy, thinking my old, nice condition high miler is still running. So long clunker cars. Until next time . Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

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Reminds me of a ‘yard in Denver I went to while living in Laramie, Wyo.  It was a high-volume, high-turnover upullit, with an amazing array of desirable stuff.  I never failed to find a selection of Dana 60s, 9-inches, TH400s and TF727s.  327/350/400 SBCs were in plague numbers, and 40s/50s/60s cruisers went through there every weekend.  A ‘67 Impala (bought the steering wheel), a ‘65 Olds (trim & gauge cluster), a ‘64 413/pushbutton 727/8.75" SureGrip mopar wagon (yard closed before I got the trans out), and a ‘51 FleetMaster with good glass (too bad–a buddy has a ‘49 and needed it) all came through in less than a month.  They all went to the crusher before I came back.  GM B-bodies, including 9C1 cars, were in the dozens every weekend.  Local rodders were always gobbling up or mangling the whole top end of the TBI cars.  Late model totals and even repos/used car lot stragglers ended up there, including a running, straight Mitsu Galant VR4 turbo.  Or the ‘64 Mercedes, with perfect sheetmetal, mint leather, and a backseat/trunk loaded with boxes filled with (wait for it) *new everything* needed to rebuild the motor (even pistons, new in the box).  Must have come from the estate of a deceased restorer.  The only thing I never came across was the elusive aluminum Slant Six. It’s a shame how much good stuff gets turned into razor blades and rebar for no good reason. Mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Another depressing day at the junkyard today. > This winter took its toll on alot of Chicago cruisers. Rows of mid to > late 80’s Caprice’s, LeSabre’s Caddy Broughams, 98’s and Town Cars. > Always a surge in new residents after winter ends, only to lay rotting > away before being fed into the crusher. > It appears my 78 Olds 88 met that fate sometime ago. > I saw many a newer car with blown airbags and minimal damage to the > front ends of those vehilce’s. I always wonder what is a 5 -7 year old > car doing in the junkyard. Not a very long life. > The latest collection of 87-90 Bonnevilles included LE, SE and four > SSE’s. If the odometers were correct they ranged from 51,000 to 136,000 > to 189,000 and 204,000 miles. There were around 10 of them in all. > Only one 1991 was there.  : – ) > There were around 10 from the 92-96 era. A silver 92 one had its rear > bumper shoved up under the left rear floor pan. Caused by an apparent > high speed offset rear end collision. > A 2000 ( or newer ) PT Cruiser and a 99 – ish looking  Z / 28 were the > newest cars on the property. The PT was high up on " The Front / Rear > Clip Storage Rack ", cut in half just behind the front door. A very > short lifespan for the PT, indeed. > Some real nice looking 90’s Roadmaster wagons, and late 80’s Custom > Cruiser, Caprice and Buick Estate wagons all lay in the last row far > enough from view & ear shot of the office personel, only to have all > their windows busted out by brake drums, bumper jack’s, or wheel rims. > I swept the glass off the leather seat in one Roadmaster wagon – what a > comfortable seat it was. To big to be put in my car. I bet that car did > some cruising at one time. > The oldest car there was a 63 Cadilac and a 64 or 65  Thunderbird. > I ended up buying a the defroster outlet grille for my dash. Mine broke > up from heat warp & age. I also got 6 window pillar molding clips and > the Bonneville nameplates off the doors, trunklid and dashboard. I also > found the long > style door map pocket from an 89 SE. Its for my front passenger door > panel. I’ve had the long style on the driver side for three years. Been > waiting that long to find another grey one for the right side. For some > reason in 1990 Pontiac shrunk the  overall length of the map pockets > about 8 inches. > After I paid for the stuff, I put my muddy boots in the trunk, washed my > hands with GOJO, cracked open a cold one ( Pepsi ) and looked at my > dirty dusty car. I drove off with a smile,  happy, thinking my old, nice > condition high miler is still running. > So long clunker cars. Until next time . > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

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> Reminds me of a ‘yard in Denver I went to while living in Laramie,

In my mind it’s even more of a crime when some wanker purports to be a car guy, then cuts up an all original, running 54 Chevy for the sake of a TV show.  Geez, with all the cars he could have used and saved from a crusher death…. Walking through a yard is always like a trip on the "what could be" machine. I hate to see anything crushed.

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Anybody remember the ‘54 Savoy ragtop that Troy Trepanier chopped up and put a Viper motor in?  That thing was supposedly *mint.*  A metalworker of Trepanier’s capability could have started with a mangled car, especially considering that there wasn’t an original panel left on it when he was done. I’ve always said that if I ever hit the lottery, I am going to buy a huge chunk of land in AZ or TX or someplace dry and salt free, and buy up everything I can find and just let it all sit until folks that care about old cars have salvaged every piece and panel. Mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Reminds me of a ‘yard in Denver I went to while living in Laramie, > In my mind it’s even more of a crime when some wanker purports to be a > car guy, then cuts up an all original, running 54 Chevy for the sake of > a TV show.  Geez, with all the cars he could have used and saved from a > crusher death…. > Walking through a yard is always like a trip on the "what could be" > machine. I hate to see anything crushed.

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You’re quite a writer HarryFace.  I always enjoy your posts!

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> You’re quite a writer HarryFace.  I always enjoy your posts!

We live in such a wasteful society, I hate to see all those decent cars setting in the JY and all these worthless little imports clogging up the roadways.  Last trip I went I wanted to buy everything there.

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> Another depressing day at the junkyard today. > A 2000 ( or newer ) PT Cruiser and a 99 – ish looking  Z / 28 were the > newest cars on the property. The PT was high up on " The Front / Rear > Clip Storage Rack ", cut in half just behind the front door. A very > short lifespan for the PT, indeed. > So long clunker cars. Until next time .

Dude get me the front calipers and caliper brakets from that Z-28 if its a 99 or newer.

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PDX, I don’t recall seeing the calipers on the Z – 28. The front end was wiped out & the engine was missing. Most of the car was smashed, the seat were wrecked form water & snow getting in there. T Tops broken out all the glass smashed. You work at a dealer – order the parts you need. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

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> Reminds me of a ‘yard in Denver I went to while living in Laramie, > In my mind it’s even more of a crime when some wanker purports to be a car > guy, then cuts up an all original, running 54 Chevy for the sake of a TV > show.  Geez, with all the cars he could have used and saved from a crusher > death…. > Walking through a yard is always like a trip on the "what could be" machine. > I hate to see anything crushed.

My brother and I bought a ‘69 Charger roof from this guy in Florida who subscribes to all the trader rags on the East Coast and drives with his diesel truck all the time to get rust-free muscle cars and then chop them up… I wanted to cry when I saw all the perfectly good cars that had been cut up into sections because the asshole can make more money cutting the things up than selling them whole.   For instance.. the charger that donated its roof to our cause was a rust-free 1968 Charger that was a 318 car from Florida… not really as ‘desirable’ as some.. but never wrecked and didn’t come with a vinyl top, so it had absolutely NO RUST…    We have these types of people to thank .. and the bureaucrats.. As for your "i hate to see anything crushed"…. there’s plenty of stuff that needs to be crushed… most front wheel drive cars should be crushed.. All French cars should be crushed regardless of mechanical condition (but usually it’s horrid anyway, so no sweat)… any remaining Yugos should be crushed as well… Matter of fact — I saw one in the junkyard the other weekend!   I couldn’t believe it!   I lifted the bonnet to marvel at the technological wonder for a moment..

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We saw a Vega in a junkyard in TX back in the late ’80’s.  It had "one millionth Vega" stickers all over the place.  We should have bought it, but   someone else did before us. My dad, brother, and I used to buy a lot of cars out of the junkyard with mechanical problems for $100 to $200.  Sometimes it’d just need a carb cleaning/ carb rebuilding/adjustments/tuneup, etc. along with a good detailing.  Then we’d resell them for $500 or so. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

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Question:

I’m thinking about spending some cash on modifying my ‘96 328 Sport and was wondering if anyone has followed a similar route to the one I’m thinking of taking: Stainless steel exhaust, Chip, K&N. Pretty basic I know but a good start?  If you have done this how does it drive?  Any estimates, or solid facts, on the BHP output I could expect from this little lot.  Any alternative routes to getting more power that you’d recommend (I’m looking for about 220-230 BHP, up from the standard 193 BHP). P.S.  It’s a BRAND NEW block + head with just over 2000 miles on it. Cheers!

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> P.S.  It’s a BRAND NEW block + head with just over 2000 miles on it. > Cheers!

Well if you paid for the new block and head then you’d have done better to have built yourself a larger capacity engine, but yes exhaust and intake mods work to some extent. Whether you’ll get 30 odd usuable hp though I don’t know. Bear in mind that the peak hp of the 325 and 328 engines is virtually the same so you’d have thought that there’d be some hidden hp in the 328 albeit possibly at the cost of low down torque and maybe non-achieveable with simple bolt-on mods.

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to get 40 more hp you’ll need a good turbo charger … but then the rest of the car will suffer a lot more without 10-15 hp is a maximum – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m thinking about spending some cash on modifying my ‘96 328 Sport and was > wondering if anyone has followed a similar route to the one I’m thinking of > taking: > Stainless steel exhaust, > Chip, > K&N. > Pretty basic I know but a good start?  If you have done this how does it > drive?  Any estimates, or solid facts, on the BHP output I could expect from > this little lot.  Any alternative routes to getting more power that you’d > recommend (I’m looking for about 220-230 BHP, up from the standard 193 BHP). > P.S.  It’s a BRAND NEW block + head with just over 2000 miles on it. > Cheers!

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> I’m thinking about spending some cash on modifying my ‘96 328 Sport and was > wondering if anyone has followed a similar route to the one I’m thinking of > taking: > Stainless steel exhaust, > Chip, > K&N.

[Yawn]  Who *hasn’t* done this yet?  Is there still a *stock* 328 left in the world? > Pretty basic I know but a good start?

Yeah, folks, it’s me again with the usual.  No offense or insult is intended, but unless you have a few driver schools under your belt, *that* is the first thing to do – at about half the cost of your exhaust system each.  Once your own abilities are good enough to *safely* and *reliably* exceed the capabilities of your car in its *stock* form, you can consider making upgrades.  Until then, I’d say, don’t change it. — C.R. Krieger BMW CCA #53302 "Don’t argue with ‘em, dear; they’re beneath our dignity." – W.C. Fields

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[Yawn] not the old "go to drivers school" *again*! That’s not going to help him go faster from one stop light to the next while he’s watching TV. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [Yawn]  Who *hasn’t* done this yet?  Is there still a *stock* 328 left > in the world? > Yeah, folks, it’s me again with the usual.  No offense or insult is > intended, but unless you have a few driver schools under your belt, > *that* is the first thing to do – at about half the cost of your exhaust > system each.  Once your own abilities are good enough to *safely* and > *reliably* exceed the capabilities of your car in its *stock* form, you > can consider making upgrades.  Until then, I’d say, don’t change it. > — > C.R. Krieger

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>Yeah, folks, it’s me again with the usual.  No offense or insult is >intended, but unless you have a few driver schools under your belt, >*that* is the first thing to do – at about half the cost of your exhaust >system each.  Once your own abilities are good enough to *safely* and >*reliably* exceed the capabilities of your car in its *stock* form, you >can consider making upgrades.  Until then, I’d say, don’t change it.

No.  Wanting more power doesn’t mean you’ll be flinging the car around corners at particularly high velocities.

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>Yeah, folks, it’s me again with the usual.  No offense or insult is >intended, but unless you have a few driver schools under your belt, >*that* is the first thing to do – at about half the cost of your exhaust >system each.  Once your own abilities are good enough to *safely* and >*reliably* exceed the capabilities of your car in its *stock* form, you >can consider making upgrades.  Until then, I’d say, don’t change it. > No.  Wanting more power doesn’t mean you’ll be flinging the car around > corners at particularly high velocities.

Wanna bet?  Unless it’s used primarily for drag racing, I’d almost ‘garontee’ it’ll happen.  ;^) — C.R. Krieger "Don’t argue with ‘em, dear; they’re beneath our dignity." – W.C. Fields

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>Yeah, folks, it’s me again with the usual.  No offense or insult is >intended, but unless you have a few driver schools under your belt, >*that* is the first thing to do – at about half the cost of your exhaust >system each.  Once your own abilities are good enough to *safely* and >*reliably* exceed the capabilities of your car in its *stock* form, you >can consider making upgrades.  Until then, I’d say, don’t change it.

Agreed

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